Mountain-top military exercises, altar sacrifices, raccoon dogs and a hailstorm

(This time it’s a weather-focused drama)

The night before, as we were going to bed even before the greater silence began at Jesus Abbey, Sarah reminded me to pray for good weather the next day. The forecast predicted rain the next day, but we hoped that the forecast would prove wrong since we had plans to climb Taebaeksan.

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It was raining lightly as we reported to the visitor office to reclaim the technology that they relieved us of when we arrived (a refreshing chance to step back from our office culture of always liking each other’s photos on facebook all the time! I used some of my technology-free free time to help plant potatoes and to write a postcard to everyone at Jubilee.)

First stop in the day was a cave, so we didn’t need to worry about the rain for the time being.  Cave weather: dark and drippy, as it must always be.  Lots of technology down there though, lights, temp/CO2/something-else monitors, motion activated water fountain with light displays… that last one seemed a bit unnecessary!

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When we emerged from underground, I think it was just cloudy… the rain held off enough to keep our hopes up for the afternoon hike.  When we arrived at our pension (looked like condos, run like a hotel?), we dumped the stuff that we didn’t want to take up the mountain and began the uphill climb.

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A few initial drizzles caused me some worry, but soon I was focused on getting past the initial disinclination of my body to go up and then keep going up and up and up. Thankfully, we took little breaks to take pictures, taste the spring water, snack, and swing on a tarzan vine. 

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One man coming down the mountain told us that we didn’t have enough time and should turn around or hurry up.  We hurried up a little, but mostly hoped he was wrong.  About that time we were starting to hit patches of snow, which was such a crazy experience for May (my only other experience of snow in May was in Norway back in 2008- pictured on right). 

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As we got higher, I think we entered a cloud.  Everything was so quiet and surreal.  Sarah kindly reminded me of the warnings we saw about what to do if we encountered any wild pigs. Thankfully, we continued undisturbed and enjoyed the beauty of the birch trees in the fog.  At one point we reached a ridge where large stones on the edge looked like bridges into the massive cloud around us. (And then, as I always must, I climbed a tree).

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We enjoyed the fog, but hoped for a miracle: that the clouds would clear when we got to the peak so that we could enjoy the view.  Well, it couldn’t have been better! Minutes after we arrived at the peak, we turned around to this spectacular view, the clouds cleared from one side of the mountain as we looked on!

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I was also impressed by the beauty of human / nature interaction at this peak: The stone structures built of the materials available on location enhanced the beauty of the peak.  The few signs were small and discreet.  No boardwalk of artificial materials like I’d expect to see in the US…

Our path led us down the cloudy side of the mountain towards the next peak, and it began to hail lightly.  We were amazed and added hail to our list of weather experiences.  Soon we had this view behind us.

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During our final uphill climb the clouds thinned enough for us to see two military planes maneuvering a circular course around a nearby mountain.  Unfortunately they were too far away and too fast for pictures. First we saw them go by, then there was a delay before we heard them.  Yes, that fast, in the clouds, and we were looking down at them!

At the top of Taebaeksan, we reached the Cheonjedan altar, used for “heavenly rituals” since the Silla kingdom (which could be any time in the first millennium AD).  Two men were arranging sacrifices on the altar and gave us permission to take pictures.

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Sarah and I sat down to eat a snack and watch the planes (still circling below, now we could see an airstrip). Suddenly a noise in the scrubby brush to my right made me turn to see something cute and furry, then two somethings.  This is the best photo I got:

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A man at the restaurant where we ate that night told us that they must have been baby wild pigs, but I was more inclined to say they looked like little bears, or maybe foxes.  A friend told Sarah that they looked like raccoons (she has a picture of the face), and when I looked up Korean raccoons, I discovered the existence of raccoon dogs (their closest relative is the bat-eared fox in Africa, but they’re in the same family as foxes and wolves).  I’m convinced we saw raccoon dogs! So cool!

Unfortunately, at this moment it began to hail, to hail strongly, and we started to envy our friends Annie, Anna, and Janet taking their vacation on a beach in the Philippines. Hurriedly, we started to descend the mountain.  As we went on, the hail stopped and we could enjoy the ancient yew trees along our path.

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Eventually we saw blue skies!

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A lovely end to an exciting hike!


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